Worlds Away

Written by Brendan Harrington

It’s an awesome display of power and grace. Twirling heavy, blazing batons two at a time, the fire dancers confidently strut into the center of our group and begin their show. Raging flames light the night, illuminating towering palm trees. The majestic spire of Bora Bora watches over, silhouetted at dusk like an ancestral king observing the traditional rite.

Even from a safe distance, we feel the intense heat. Sparks flicker as the flames trail into ethereal circles, revealing how quickly and precisely the dancers move. Like a majorette, they toss and catch the batons, rapidly spinning them behind their backs, through their legs, and above their heads. Then they stop.

Kneeling, they inch the flames closer and closer to their faces and, with a powerful bark, breathe a plume of fire into the night.
Where the heck are we and how did we get here? Let me start from the beginning…

My wife and I were on the Dreams of Tahiti sailing with Windstar Cruises. We had finally gotten the chance to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary, which had come and gone long ago, and decided this was the best way to really mark the occasion. Life at home, as it does, had gotten extremely busy, and we yearned for an escape to reconnect, recover, and renew.

But the mere idea of planning a vacation was too much to handle. Where should we go? Where will we stay? Dining reservations, activities, transportation… Life was moving fast, and planning a trip just wasn’t in the cards.

We wanted a blend of rest and action. Luxury and adventure. Some pampering to help us recover, and, at the same time, new discoveries to help us feel alive again. We had never been on a cruise of any kind and, frankly, thought we never would. We’re just not cruising people. But this seemed like the perfect way to get us far away from the everyday routine we were running.

So without planning a single thing, we booked the trip, booked the flights, marked the calendar, and forgot all about it.

When the day came, we showed up at the port in Papeete to board the yacht for seven glorious days of sailing the Society Islands. We didn’t know what to expect, but what we discovered would change our perception of what a cruise can be — and what a vacation should be — forever.

The week became a free flow of fine dining, adventure, relaxation, and stunning scenery in an otherworldly part of the world that we’d be hard-pressed to see any other way. Each day unfolded at our pace and on our own agenda. The mornings were leisurely, sipping coffee on the deck, awestruck by postcard scenery all around. The days were filled with curated experiences we’ll never forget. And the evenings were, well, wonderful.

There was no shortage of activities to choose from. Educational tours of local vanilla plantations and black pearl farms. Guided snorkels through beautiful coral reefs. Four-wheel drive excursions and e-bike tours. And when we just wanted to relax and splash about in the sea, there was a floating Marina laid out behind the yacht where we could sun, swim, and snooze to our heart’s delight.

No matter the activity, each day was an orchestrated interplay of discovery and luxury, where the service was first class at every turn.

There was the day at Moorea where we slipped away to a sandy cove and snoozed under the palms, all by ourselves. There was the e-bike tour of Huahine, where we glided along the coastal road with a small group learning about the island. There was the drift snorkel, where we floated through a shallow coral garden bursting with color.

On the wild side, there was the outrageous jet ski adventure, blasting across the shallow, glassy lagoon surrounding the island of Bora Bora. Navigating patches of seagrass through crystal clear waters, we got to see this legendary island up close and from every angle. There was the scuba diving day along the reef wall off Raiatea, where tropical fish and lively coral spun a sun-streaked kaleidoscope. A dozen reef sharks casually swam about, much less interested in us than we were in them.

There was the leisurely sunset cruise where we boarded a pontoon to putter through the channel off of Taha’a while a smiling islander lilted traditional music on a ukulele and our guide shared the history of this remote, mysterious place. A light rain sprinkled by and the sun sank slowly below the horizon, setting the vast sky alight.

And, of course, there was an unforgettable play day at the private Motu Mahaea, where the crew set out a lunch for kings, along with paddleboards, kayaks, and lounge chairs for us to spend a day lazing under the palms, snorkeling in crystal clear waters, and walking hand in hand along a white sand beach.

As much as we enjoyed the excursions, though, we were even more impressed by the sheer level of service. After a day in the sun and sea, boarding a small tender back to the yacht and walking into a perfectly appointed, air-conditioned room was pure bliss. There was always a thoughtful gift made by local artisans and — undoubtedly my wife’s favorite part of the entire trip — our laundry cleaned and pressed and waiting on our bed.

From the moment we stepped on board, we were greeted by the crew on a first-name basis everywhere we went. Always smiling and always happy to see us, we quickly felt like friends and got to know them personally. The sommelier Diego invited us to his family home in Colombia. We dined with Hotel General Manager Cathy and heard stories of her travels. Our room attendant Adam elevated our experience in small ways, tending to every little detail and ensuring that we always had what we wanted.

So much so, in fact, that after noticing my wife’s book on the bedside table with a page marked by a turned corner, he slipped a bookmark in at the right spot in a perfectly delivered personal touch.

After bouncing back to the yacht from a morning in the sun, we would find ourselves enjoying a leisurely fresh-catch lunch on the aft deck, with a crisp white wine. From the top deck, we would sit and watch the sun slip below the horizon for one spectacular sunset after another. Golden rays darting across the waves, reflecting on the day, reflecting on us. A chance to slow down, reconnect, and revisit all that we are, do, and love in our busy lives at home.

And in the evenings we would dress for an elegant dinner, meet with new friends, and share stories of the day. Our favorite restaurant, Amphora, featured a new menu every night, including specialty dishes created by James Beard Award-winning chefs exclusively for Windstar. Amazing.
Each evening was unique and a perfect way to cap a wonderful day. An after-dinner stroll on the deck. The full moon rising behind the towering spire of Bora Bora. These are nights and sights that we will keep with us forever.

But the keystone event of the entire week was the spectacular Destination Discovery event on a private motu off of Bora Bora. We were shuttled by pontoon from the yacht to a tiny island where the crew had set up an expansive dinner, with long tables stretched out under the palm trees. Two local musicians played bright, cheery music, setting a festive mood. Polynesian dancers in grass skirts swayed gracefully to the music, an easy, fluid rhythm in perfect harmony with the gentle breeze in the palm trees above. Dusk set in as the sky shifted through shades of blue, purple, pink, and above it all, the monolith of Bora Bora watched proudly through the trees.

And then the fire dancers strutted into the center, lit their torches on both ends, and began the show. With power and grace, they twirled, tossed, and spun the fiery batons. While they made it look easy, feeling the heat from 20 feet away reinforced how impressive — and dangerous — this was. Stomping and chanting in a traditional fire dance passed down through generations, they stood on each other’s shoulders, moving in unison. They took turns individually, showing their own skills in this display originally performed by warriors boasting of courage and strength.

It was an invigorating night. A lively atmosphere with everyone dancing, singing, and celebrating the culmination of a wonderful week with new friends, shared experiences, and forever memories.

By the end of the week, with days blending together into a canvas of magical moments, my wife and I still agreed: we’re not cruising people, but we are definitely Windstar people.